Fontainhas Latin Quarter
Panjim's old Portuguese quarter: narrow lanes, ochre and blue heritage houses, tiny cafes and art galleries. Perfect for a lazy morning walk and a coffee. Don't miss the Chapel of St Sebastian.
Panjim's old Portuguese quarter: narrow lanes, ochre and blue heritage houses, tiny cafes and art galleries. Perfect for a lazy morning walk and a coffee. Don't miss the Chapel of St Sebastian.
Come early on the wedding day or set aside a morning: the Se Cathedral, Church of St Francis of Assisi and the Basilica of Bom Jesus are all within a short walk of each other and together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Free entry, modest dress please.
The famous Wednesday flea market on Anjuna beach, 20 minutes from Mapusa. Jewellery, clothes, spices, live music and plenty of haggling. Great to combine with a sunset at Anjuna or Vagator beach and dinner at one of the beach shacks.
Divar Island, Goa 403403, India
A sleepy river island just across the Mandovi from Old Goa, reached by a free 5-minute ferry. Whitewashed churches, old Portuguese villas and quiet lanes that are perfect for a cycle or a slow drive. Feels like Goa from 50 years ago.
Mall De Goa, NH66, Alto Porvorim, Goa 403521, India
Fish thali near Porvorim. The Mall De Goa branch of Panjim's legendary seafood house: fried fish, prawn curry, clams, rice and sol kadi on one plate. Thalis are a lunchtime thing, so go early and go hungry.
H. No. 103, Mae de Deus Waddo, Sangolda, Goa 403511, India
Fish thali near Porvorim. A family-run Goan kitchen in Sangolda, about 10 minutes up the Mapusa road. Order the Chonak thali: rawa-fried sea bass, prawn curry, clams and kokum kadhi. The owner hand-picks the fish at the market every morning.
Chogm Road, SBI Colony, Alto Porvorim, Goa 403501, India
Fish thali near Porvorim. A big, comfortable restaurant on Chogm Road that locals swear by for a generous, great-value fish thali. Easy for a large group lunch, with plenty of veg and non-veg options for everyone else.
Hs. 622 Ozran Beach Road, Vagator, Goa 403509, India
Live music. A cosy café-bar in Vagator with an eclectic line-up of jazz bands and independent artists from Goa, India and abroad, plus playful cocktails and good seafood. Check their Instagram to see who's playing that night.
Fort Aguada Road, Sinquerim, Candolim, Goa 403515, India
Live music. A long-running club near Fort Aguada with live bands most nights of the week: singalong covers, retro and rock. The one for a big night out with the whole gang. Opens around 7 pm and goes late.
7/73 B, Cruz Vaddo, Saligao, Goa 403516, India
Live music. A bar in a restored Portuguese house in Saligao (the much-loved old Cantare tavern, reopened under new management) with regular live jazz nights, good cocktails and Goan food. An easy evening out from Mapusa or Porvorim.
Main Road, Candolim, Goa 403515, India
Goa's feni museum, on Candolim's main road. Five rooms of antique glass vats, old bottles and traditional distilling gear tell the story of cashew feni, Goa's heritage spirit. Finish in the cellar with a tasting (some of their feni dates back to 1946). A fun stop before a beach evening.
Souza Towers, Dr RS Road, near Municipal Garden, Panaji, Goa 403001, India
Local breakfast. Feeding Panjim since 1913 and still run by the same family (now the fourth generation). Order puri bhaji or patal bhaji with poi, a samosa on the side and a cup of chai. Opens at 7 am, just by the Panjim Church.
403 Cunha Rivara Road, Panaji, Goa 403001, India
Local breakfast. A 100-year-old Panjim institution near the National Theatre, buzzing from 6:30 am. Go for bhaji-puri or batata bhaji with pao and a strong chai. Quick, no-frills and very local: exactly how Panjim starts its day.
18th June Road, Panaji, Goa 403001, India
Local breakfast. A vegetarian café on 18th June Road, run by the Kesarkar family for over 60 years. Choose from around 11 kinds of bhaji (try the sukhi bhaji and batata wada) with pao and tea. A Panjim favourite that feels unchanged in time.
H. No. 674, Torda, Salvador do Mundo, Goa 403521, India
A two-floor gallery of Mario Miranda's cartoons, the artist who drew Goan village life like no one else. Sketches, life-sized cut-outs of his characters, and a lovely shop for souvenirs to take home: prints, mugs, tote bags and T-shirts. Right next to the Houses of Goa Museum, just off Porvorim. Open 10 am to 5 pm.